INTRODUCTION

Every now and then there’s an AEG I’m really excited of doing a review of. This time, it’s Modify’s newest addition to the AEG market: the XTC-G1. The XTC-G1, “XTC” stands for “Extreme Tactical Carbine”, is Modify’s first ever complete AEG.

This review will be a little bit longer than my usual ones because the XTC is not just an ordinary AR15 and there are so many details to show and talk about. Enough small-talk, let’s dive right into it. As ususal, we will start with the externals first and finish off with the internal parts.

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The first thing you will notice is the excellent build quality and the superb finish of every single component. Modify has a lot of experience in precision machining (not only in the Airsoft market) and this really shows off when looking closely at the XTC. I’ve been using Modify tuning parts for most of my builds and those are some of the best parts money can buy.

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EXTERNAL FEATURES

The XTC features a 13″-ish free-float KeyMod tube rail and a 14.5″ one-piece outer barrel both CNC machined out of aluminum. The flash hider is basically a modernized version of the original “Bird Cage” used on the M16/M4 models. The flip-up sights are made out of a high-quality plastic and remind me a lot of the TROY “Folding Battle Sights”.

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The billet-style receiver features a very modern sporting design with all its details. The most prominent features are the enhanced magwell, the ribbed surface on the front of the magwell, the 45° ambidextrous fire selector and the curved trigger guard. The build quality and the finish of the receiver is just amazing – the surface is sooo smooth thanks to the electrodeposited coating. The only issue here is that the black color comes off quite fast. For some this will be an issue, for those who like their guns looking used, it won’t be much of a problem at all.

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The dust cover is made out of the same high-quality plastic as the flip-up sights and features a honeycomb-pattern. This adds up tot the sporty look of the XTC.

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The XTC also features a fake-bolt with a working bolt-catch function.

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Modify’s 45° ambidextrous fire selector is probably the best ambi. fireselector I’ve ever used on an Airsoft gun. But more on that later in the review.

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Another view on the flip-up front sight and the “business end” of the XTC-G1.

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The flip-up sights work can be flipped up and down without having to press any buttons. Next to the mounting screw there’s another one used to adjust the friction of the flip-up mechanism. This is actually a pretty good idea as you can adjust the flip behavior according to your needs. If you’re using the sights regularly, you can loosen the screw so they move up and down with ease. If you don’t use the sights at all (besides aesthetic reasons) you can tighten down the sights to ensure that they won’t flip up during combat.

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You can already see the paint coming off at the magwell as I often carried the XTC by gripping the magwell.

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THE FRONTSET

Now we’re going to take a look at the individual parts of the Modify XTC-G1 starting with the front set. The KeyMod rail is not only lightweight but also featured a very slim and minimalistic design. It’s mounted to the barrel nut with three hex screws. The machining is done very well, there are no sharp edges, no burrs, nothing.

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Every metal part on this gun is so well machined, I can’t really describe it in words. I haven’t see such an amazing build quality in a while to be honest (Krytac comes very close to this) and it is so satisfying working on this gun.

The outer barrel features a one-piece design and is about 14.5 inches long.

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The gas block doesn’t really look like your average AR gas block and it’s basically just there to hold the dummy gas rod in place. The gas rod is held in place by a small grub screw on the top and bottom so it doesn’t move back and forth.

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The XTC’s barrel nut design is quite unorthodox and I haven’t seen a design like this before. It basically consists of three pieces:

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The first ring features a thread and is used to mount the outer barrel. The outer barrel doesn’t get screwed onto the receiver as usual, no – it gets screwed into the second ring, which is used to mount the hand guard attachment onto the lower receiver’s threading.

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The outer barrel features a 14mm counterclockwise thread. The flash hider has no adjustment/mounting screw but when tightened all the way down, it stays at an exact horizontal position.

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Here’s another view on the gas block’s grub screw.

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THE RECEIVER

The receiver looks very modern and sporty with the enhanced magwell and the shaped trigger guard. The finish, as I wrote earlier, is amazing.

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The gearbox doesn’t feature the typical “mag catch loop” on the lower front. When I was about to separate the gearbox from the receiver, I tried to unscrew the mag catch a few times (as you would usually do on a standard AR model) until I recognized, that this wasn’t necessary because the the gearbox wasn’t mounted to the mag catch.

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Due to the precise machining of the slot in which the mag catch sits, the mag catch is very likely to get hung up on the edges. I experienced this many times when reloading and it can be a bit of a hassle to get the mag catch back in place in the middle of a reload. Beveling the edges of the slot would help solve this issue and Modify is already aware of it.

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The bolt catch is functioning and the bolt release basically pulls a rod through the gearbox and releases the fake bolt on the other side of the receiver. The bolt release knop can easily be taken off without any tools. Be sure no to loose it as it falls out easily when separating the upper from the lower receiver.

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The charging handle has a cut-out section and the gearbox features a small steel pin so that the charging handle can’t slip off the shell when pulling backwards.

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The charging handle is a basic AR model

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The fake bolt covers up the ejection port nicely and has a matt black finish.

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The fire selector mechanism used in the XTC-G1 is a little bit different than the one used on the standard ARs. It uses small gears on both sides of the gearbox shell that connect all the way trough the gearbox.

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When removing the fire selector, be sure to pay attention to the small springs and ball bearings, do not loose them! The fire selector levers feature different lengths. You can swap the selectors from one side to the other depending on your dominant hand or your preferred selector length.

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Standard V2 Hop-Up units are not compatible with the XTC-G1 as they wont fit into the receiver.

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The receiver features a sling plate on the back.

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The motor plate features cooling ribs and a nice and big motor adjustment screw. The screw is a bit loose and I suggest using some Loctite to hold it in place after adjusting the motor height.

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The pistol grip has a very ergonomic design and features a textured anti-slip surface.

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The pistol grip also features a dedicated cutout section for the cables.

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THE STOCK

The stock of the XTC-G1 is something special. It features basically the same design as the LMT SOPMOD stock with a few small design changes. But the really special thing about this stock is the way it connects the battery to the gearbox.

The stock was giving me a bit of a headache on my first game with the XTC. The black nut, that holds the stock lever in place did unscrew itself and I lost the complete lever mid game. The grub screw, that holds the nut in place is actually screwed in from the bottom of the nut (vertically) and not sideways as seen in the photo below. I didn’t know that until talking to Modify. So if you’re aware of the gub screw’s location, it is actually pretty easy to tighten it down securily.

The nut and the adjustment lever you see in the photo below are from another LMT-type stock I had laying around.

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Modify designed a special system that eliminates the need for a cable going all the way to the back of the stock. This means there’s more space for the battery.

The stock tube features contact patches on the very back that connect to another contact patch inside the stock.

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The cables can be disconnected for easier disassembly.

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A close-up photo of the connectors. Note the small slot inside the stock tube for the connectors.

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The XTC also features a quick spring change system with the ability to adjust the spring tension for different muzzle velocities. The spring tension can be set to two different settings by turning the spring guide a few degrees which results in +-30 FPS.

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To remove the spring or adjust the tension you’ll need a long screwdriver with a hexagonal key.

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By turning the screwdriver counterclockwise you can remove the spring guide.

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The spring guide is machined out of a solid piece of metal and features ball bearings.

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The stock features a flap for easy access to the stock compartment.

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There’s a small slider on the back for unlocking the stock pad as well as a rubber stock pad.

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The battery compartment inside the stock is big and you can fit a lot of different batteries inside. Note that I already soldered a Dean connector and a different copper wire to the contact patches. The XTC comes with a standard small Tamiya connector and a fuse (not on the photo).

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Here’s a photo of the contact patch inside the stock.

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And another close-up of the contacts on the end of the stock tube.

This system actually works very well and I really like the fact that I can remove the whole stock (even with the battery connected) and change the spring or the spring tension. But there is one problem that can be quite annoying mid game: when you retract the stock to the rear third of the stock tube and put some pressure on the stock from below (vertically), like when you’re shouldering the rifle and you’re pressing the stock ‘down’ on the shoulder, the occurring leverage lifts the stock up slightly and disconnects the two contact patches. This happen a few times on Borderwar while I was attacking enemy players. A quick fix is to lever up the contacts on the rear end of the stock tube so that there’s more pressure on the contact patch inside the stock.

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THE HOP-UP & INNER BARREL

The hop-up unit (referred to as “HU”) features a modern single dial design and is made out of plastic. The dial works very precise and you can adjust it click-by-click.

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Here’s a comparison photo of the XTC’s HU chamber and a standard V2 AR chamber. The standard chamber seems to be a tiny bit shorter than the XTC’s.

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The HU chamber taken down into it’s components.

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The HU arm features a molded, fixed nub design.

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The window for the nub is quite large, which is nice if you plan on doing some mods (Flat Nubs, R-Hops etc.)

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The HU chamber is a bit of a problem child. It basically works, but the main problem is, that the nub of the bucking doesn’t go down far enough into the barrel to effectively change the BB’s trajectory. On the photo below you can see the bucking’s nub at the max. setting. You might not notice this issue when shooting at a lower FPS with light BBs (0,2g) but when using a stronger spring and heavier BBs (0,28g), the maximum HU setting is just too little.

Modify is already working on different improvements to the HU chamber and there will be an improved chamber / arm in the near future.

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The bucking features ribs on the inside that help with the air sealing.

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My fix for increasing the max. HU setting is pretty easy and uses a simple household item: an eraser. This is actually a technique used in building custom flat-hop setups. If you don’t know what a “flat hop” is, check out this guide here.

I cut off several small pieces of the eraser and trimmed them down to fit the HU chamber’s nub window. Note that I cut off pieces with different widths/heights so I could insert one after the other to see which one was the best fit.

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The nub should sit nice and flush inside the window but also have a little bit of space around it so it doesn’t get hung up on the edges. Place the HU arm back over the nub. The eraser now acts in the same way as your standard round nub would do in a normal HU unit.

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Put the HU unit back together and set the dial to the max setting. Now the nub of the bucking goes down much further into the barrel and you now have a wider range of adjustment. Be sure to check if the nub is aligned horizontally.

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The inner barrel is 363mm long and features a 6.1mm inner diameter. No, there’s no “0” missing. This type of barrel is called a “wide bore barrel”. I don’t want to explain the whole difference between tight- and wide bore barrel here as this would fill up the entire review. If you want to know more, check out this video from Amped Airsoft.

After modding the HU unit, the accuracy of the Modify XTC-G1 is outstanding. A friend of mine was testing the long range accuracy and he was able to hit a 10x10cm target 65m away with 17 out of 20 shots on target using the standard spring and 0,28g BBs. This accuracy is impressive for an out-of-the-box AEG.

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THE GEARBOX & INTERNALS

There’s only one thing I can say about this gearbox and it is something I thought I’ll never ever write in a review: this is the best gearbox I’ve ever seen in an off-the-shelf AEG. Period. I am an Airsoft technician for little over 13 years now and I’ve never seen a gearbox like this before. The precision, the details, the quality of the parts and the accuracy of fit is just mind blowing. I still get goose bumps when thinking about it. let’s look at the details.

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The selector plate looks slightly different than your normal V2 AR one due to the fire selector system Modify is using.

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The golden gear you can see in the photo above is part of the ambidextrous fire selector mechanism and connects to the gear on the other side of the shell via a steel rod. This steel rod features a split design so that you can separate the two gearbox shells with ease. The machining of all the threads and holes inside the gearbox shell is very precise.

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The XTC’s gearbox features 8mm ball bearings for the sector and bevel gear. Modify chose to use Torx screws instead of the usual Phillips or Hex screws. Another feature you can see in the photo below is that the anti-reversible latch (short “ARL”) features a slot so that you can turn it backwards and reset the gears if necessary. You would usually do this when disassembling a standard V2 gearbox so that the spring is extended all the way before opening the gearbox. Since the XTC features a quick spring change system, you can remove the spring completely before opening the shell.

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This is the bolt catch mechanism for the fake bolt. You have to remove it in order to be able to separate the two halves of the gearbox shell. Be sure not to loose the tiny c-clip.

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Now this is what the gearbox looks like on the inside.

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When I was looking at the other half of the shell I was actually wondering where the heck the bearing for the spur gear was? More on that later. In the meantime, you can guess for your own.

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The latest version of the Modify XTC-G1 features a simple mosfet. I really love it when manufacturers use these components as they not only increase the trigger response but also make the trigger contacts last longer.

The thick-walled hole right above the mosfet is where the receiver pin goes trough, in case you were wondering.

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Look at this sexy CNC machined anti-reversible latch! There’s an extra steel pin for the ARL’s spring to push against.

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These are the little things that make this gearbox so awesome: Modify added a c-clip to the axle of the ARL so that the spring can’t come off. They also fioxed the spring itself with a flat-headed pin. With these features, it’s a treat to take out and insert the ARL back into the gearbox.

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Back to the missing spur gear bearing. In case you didn’t already figure it out …

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… the bearing for the spur gear sits inside the spur gear itself. The steel axle of the spur gear is removable. The bearing is not just some ordinary ball bearing, it’s a ceramic ball bearing.

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The AoE (Angle of Engagement) is on point, amazing! Adjusting the AoE correctly is a crucial step in building a reliable gearbox.

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The gear set is CNC machined out of steel. The shimming is perfect. I had to check the shimming twice because I couldn’t really believe it.

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I was so happy about the gear set I had to make a video if it spinning inside the gearbox.

let’s take a closer look at the cylinder set. The cylinder is, I guess, made out of aluminum and has a very smooth surface on the inside. The cylinder has the right volume for the 6.1mm inner barrel. The tappet plate is made out of clear plastic.

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The nozzle is made out of plastic and features an o-ring.

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The nozzle is 22.32mm long, which is a little longer than your average M4 nozzle (21.4mm). The air-seal with this nozzle is perfect. I tested the compression with the nozzle all the way forward on the cylinder head and I could neither hear nor feel any air exiting.

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The piston is made out of some very durable plastic and features 7 metal teeth on the front. I would usually go with a full metal rack but with the AoE being on spot, the plastic teeth should last a while.

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The piston head is CNC machined out of aircraft-grade aluminum and features vent holes on the front. I completely forgot to take a decent photo of the cylinder head, I’m sorry for that, but you can see the cylinder head in the photo of the cylinder set above. The cylinder head features two o-rings and is CNC machined out of the same aircraft-grade material as the piston head. It fits veeeery tight onto the cylinder and the air seal is perfect.

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Another very nice feature of the XTC’s gearbox: the trigger features a dedicated steel bushing and a steel axle. I didn’t take it out of the gearbox so I can’t exactly tell you if the trigger features the same c-clip and pin as the ARL to hold the spring in place.

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The nozzle features a square outlet. This prevents the BB from getting sucked in while the piston is traveling back inside the cylinder.

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Lust but not least, the motor. The motor is labeled as a “19T Torque Motor”. The “19T” refers to the turns of copper wire wound around each pole of the armature of the motor. The more turns the motor has, the stronger it is. The term “turns” is commonly used with RC motors, I’ve never seen an Airsoft motor being labeled with turns. I can’t really say much about the motor. It works well and even with an M120 spring, the ROF is amazing.

Speaking of ROF: using a 3s LiPo battery, I was able to get 2000rpm with the standard spring on the outmost tension setting. That is pretty impressive for an off-the-shelf AEG.

Not to forget the FPS test: with the included spring at the lowest tension setting, I was able to measure 357 FPS (+-3 FPS) and 381 FPS (+- 3 FPS) on the highest tension setting. The shot-to-shot consistency is very good.

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CONCLUSION

What can I say? It is quite hard for me to forge my thoughts and feelings for this AEG into written words. The build quality of the externals and internals is almost out of this world. I know, what Modify is capable of and I’ve used their upgrade parts in all of my major builds but the XTC-G1 did surprise me with all its details.

The only thing I didn’t talk about yet is the price. I would have expected this gun to be way more expensive than it actually is. With around 350USD, the XTC is the best bang for the buck I’ve seen in a long time. In this price range, there’s not one single AEG that features the same overall quality – to be honest, the Krytac AEGs do come close but the XTC ist just ahead of the game. With a few improvements and suggestions from players and testers, Modify could really become a serious contender in the AEG market.

modify-logoI’d like to thank Modify for giving me the opportunity of testing the XTC-G1. It was such a joy doing this review.

You can get your very own XTC-G at Evike (USA), Gunfire (Europe) or WGC Shop (Hongkong).

 

GALLERY